The big drawback is the beach - it's almost non-existent but there are plenty of local boatmen who will take you out to Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island), which has decent beaches and fabulous seafood restaurants. If you want to stay at Kep in style, take a look at Knai Bang Chatt (knaibangchatt.com), which gets knockout reviews. Another 20 kilometres to the north-west is Kampot (pictured), a river port with a few tarted-up bars and guesthouses along the waterfront. The main reason to come to Kampot is the bumpy two-hour ride up Bokor Mountain, one of the few places in south-east Asia with enough intact forest to maintain a population of elephants and tigers. At the top is Bokor itself, a former hill station that was shattered in the fighting between the Khmer Rouge and Vietnamese forces, now silent and wreathed in mist.
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